THE MINI guide… Pembrokeshire, South Wales

Travelling anywhere in the UK can be a gamble concerning the weather. But in the last few years, we’ve lucked out.

Pembrokeshire family paddle boarding
Words & photos: Tez Plavenieks

Whilst I’m in the water right through the seasons, I look forward to summer and getting the rest of my family amongst it. With only a smattering of days gone by applicable to kiddy water time, more opportunity comes with the arrival of summer.

Time to get gone 
Now, we’ll all be aware of how damp the Welsh weather can often be. Travelling anywhere in the UK can be a gamble concerning the weather. But in the last few years, we’ve lucked out and enjoyed simply stunning conditions in Pembrokeshire. The irony!

Saundersfoot base
Without harping on too much about the weather, our base of Saundersfoot, on the east-facing Pembs coast, has been chosen for various reasons. It is a resort in its own right, not far from the bustling Tenby, with a nice beach right out front and a micro-climate. If the weather will be decent anywhere in Pembrokeshire, it’s here.

Saundersfoot itself can be thronging during public holidays. It has that typical coastal resort vibe with a hint of ‘surfy’ beneath the surface. Its sandy beach, growing considerably at low tide as it links with other expanses of the golden stuff, is excellent for SUP. Primarily flat water, it’s fantastic for kids and general salty shenanigans. Now and again, with a big pulse of swell, you get a wave here. It can also be cracking for foiling or SUP surfing when this happens.

Other options close by
Right next door to Saundersfoot is Amroth (with a couple of other beaches in between). Amroth can offer respite from the Saundersfoot crowds. It’s often much quieter. With (low and behold) plentiful parking – almost unheard of at other coastal venues during peak times in the UK!

Amroth’s beach starts to come into its own once the tide starts to recede. At the Telpin end, there’s a headland to explore by paddle board when it’s calm. Or stay on the flats right in front of the sea defences (which are pretty steep to get down, it should be noted). As with other east-facing beaches, occasionally, you get a SUP and SUP foil-friendly wave here – which we did during our last visit. It can be great for paddling and those beginning their wave journey.

The wild Pembrokeshire West
One of the great things about the far-flung west of Wales is that locations aren’t that spread out. It only takes a short while to drive between spots. Heading from Saundersfoot to the west-facing beaches, you have the staples of Manorbier, Freshwater West, Newgale and Whitesands.

There are also lots of off-the-beaten-track put-ins. One is Marloes Sands, a stunning beach accessible via a steep cliffside pathway. The walk-in keeps things quiet. It’s worth a look, as it can be spectacular in the early spring sunshine. Watch out for high tide as it’s sketchy to access, with Marloes mostly disappearing when the sea pushes in.

Newgale’s crowning glory
For us as a family – when looking for more rugged yet accessible spots – Newgale is the one. An hour or so away from Saundersfoot Newgale is a choice wave beach that also works at lower tides. The shore dump onto the large stones at high tide can be significant.

As with everywhere in Pembs, there are other beaches close by. Newgale’s low-tide sandy expanse links with Broadhaven, so there’s plenty of space. Surf-wise, it can get chunky here. But more often, it’s mellow and easygoing. If quite exposed to the wind. Wing foiling can be awesome though! 

Our favourite Pembrokeshire beaches
During the last few visits to Pembrokeshire, we’ve had the opportunity to explore many different beaches – some of which we’ve made frequent sojourns to. These are some of our favourites from all those we’ve experienced. There are plenty, however, we haven’t even discovered yet!

Saundersfoot is a family-friendly beach with a large expanse of sand at low tide. It’s right next to a harbour, so be wary of that. It also gets busy. Great for flat water SUP, wing foiling if breezy and general beach shenanigans.

Amroth is quieter than Saundersfoot. Amroth is just along the coast and, at low tide, has lots of sand to play on. Some tidal pools form for splashing about in as well. Offering mainly flat water paddle boarding, it can sometimes serve up a friendly wave. 

Tenby South – golden sands, stunning views and a riviera feel give Tenby South a distinct personality. The beach does shelve fairly steeply, but on calmer days, it can be fun for paddling and swimming. It’s also suitable for waves if there’s a solid swell pulsing.

Newgale – our fave Pembrokeshire beach for surfing is best at lower tide as the water recedes from the large stones. Newgale is very exposed but can be pretty mellow nonetheless. 

Freshwater West is one of the premier surfing beaches in the area. If there are waves, ensure you’re up to the challenge, as it can be testing. Especially for wee ones. Worth a look, though.

Marloes Sands is a picturesque and out-of-the-way Pembrokeshire beach that’s great when you fancy respite from the crowds. It does get surf, but being isolated, you need to make sure your skills are up to it. It’s best at low tide.

Depending on what you’re after as a family, plenty of other beaches and paddle boarding/watersports locations exist.

Other things to do
If SUP and watersports aren’t doing it for you, plenty of stuff keeps your family entertained. In particular, the Welsh love a castle – practically one on every corner. As such, exploring and discovering these ancient monuments is an easy activity that takes some time. But there’s more, too.

• Mooch around Tenby’s bustling seaside town, followed by a boat ride to Caldey Island. Explore the island’s 1500-year-old history.
• Head to Pembroke Castle and discover what it was like living in such a place. Other castles are available.
• Spend the day at Dinosaur Park, Tenby. This is quite a mellow theme park that’s perfect for younger children.
• Get up close and personal with birds of prey courtesy of Pembrokeshire Falconry. These guys can often be found at locations around Pembrokeshire putting on events.
• Explore the smallest city in the UK – St.Davids and its cathedral. Whitesands Bay is close by for some beach action.

The above barely scratches the surface of what’s available. Have a search online to find more.

Eats and drinks
There are lots of choices for eating and drinking options. Pembrokeshire has all the usual artisan stuff you’d hope to find. For families, however, the following is what I’d suggest.

The Amroth Arms is a chilled, family-friendly beachfront pub in Amroth. It gets busy in summer, so get there early. There is no option to book as it’s first come, first served.

The Angel – part of a hotel in Narberth- has a slightly upper-market restaurant that’s still family-friendly. Narberth itself is a quaint, small town with other eateries as well.

The Boar’s Head is another higher-end bistro-style pub. The Boar’s Head at Templeton is worth a look. It also gets busy on the main road to Narberth, so reservations are essential.

Dragon Palace – a popular and authentic Chinese restaurant just outside of Saundersfoot. If you like Chinese food, this is recommended.

Fish and chips on the beach – plenty of fish and chip takeaways, depending on your location.

As with everything in Pembrokeshire, there’s a wide range of choices depending on what you’re after. These suggestions are just a few of what we’ve experienced as a family.

Summing up
Pembrokeshire has something for everybody. You don’t need to be a paddle border to enjoy the wild west of Wales. It’s an excellent location for families and one we’ll undoubtedly return to. If you’ve never experienced Pembrokeshire, I’d highly recommend it.

For more info, visit – https://www.visitpembrokeshire.com/