Coast to coast

It is five years this summer since the Canal and River Trust officially created the trail that passes through Merseyside, Lancashire and Yorkshire in the north of England.

Liverpool to Goole: A northern adventure of a lifetime!

Words: Jo Moseley
Photos: Gee Jackson, Jason Elliott, Daisy Best, Sara Edgar, Sarah Chisem, Ant Ing, Chuck, Frit Tam, Julie Kelly, Lucy Morris, Jo Moseley and Michelle Ellison

Would you like to challenge yourself with an endurance SUP adventure and wonder if it’s within your grasp, or would you like to know a little more about what is involved? If the answer is yes, let my friends and me tell you about the beautiful 162-mile Liverpool to Goole coast-to-coast trail along the Leeds and Liverpool Canal (128 miles) and Aire and Calder Navigation (34 miles).

It is five years this summer since the Canal and River Trust officially created the trail that passes through Merseyside, Lancashire and Yorkshire in the north of England. This was shortly after I was fortunate enough, aged 54, to become the first woman to complete the challenge, fundraising for The Wave Project and The 2 Minute Foundation whilst also picking up litter. The first person was my friend Jason Elliott, who then also aged 54, made the crossing in February 2019 at times during Storm Erik. As a plastics recycler, Jason was fundraising for Surfers Against Sewage.

The beauty of this challenge
is that the route is very well documented, with detailed information to help you plan. Yet, as far as I am aware, at the time of writing, only 12 people have crossed it in full in one trip. More have climbed Everest or swum the Channel! 

The Leeds and Liverpool Canal is the longest canal in Britain. It took over 50 years to build and was completed in 1816. In its heyday, millions of tonnes of coal were transported on barges, and it was very significant in the development of the cotton and weaving industries. There are 91 locks between Liverpool and Leeds and several more from Leeds to Goole, so you will get very good at portaging (carrying) your boards! 

This includes the 21 locks at Wigan Flight and the world-famous Bingley Five Rise, the steepest staircase locks. There are two tunnels to navigate: Gannow Tunnel (559 yards/540m) and the mile long, Foulridge Tunnel, close to the border between Lancashire and Yorkshire, which works on a traffic light system. 
The canal runs through both industrial and very rural areas, giving you lots of variety to enjoy. It is also near the UNESCO World Heritage Site Saltaire Village and the stunning architecture of Salts Mill. 

Leisure and wellbeing
Nowadays, the canal is very much a place for leisure and wellbeing. You can hire narrowboats in Skipton, immerse yourself in the history of Wigan Pier, spot kingfishers, walk or cycle along the towpath, visit the highest point on the canal at Greenberfield Locks, swim in Leeds Dock or have a meal on the Leeds City Centre Waterfront. Nearby is the Holdfast narrowboat bookshop, and an ice cream boat is in Skipton Basin. 

Waterways License
The Canal and River Trust manages the canal, and you will need a Waterways License, which is part of your Paddle UK (formerly British Canoeing) membership. Part of the license fee is reinvested back into the care of the canal structure and tackling INNS (invasive non-native species), which can impede your paddling. Go to http://www.canalrivertrust.org.uk and http://www.paddleuk.org for more information.

Life changing
Paddleboarding coast-to-coast changed my life back in 2019, and it was one of the reasons I went on to write my two books about beautiful places to SUP, launch a podcast, and make a film about the trip called ‘Brave Enough – A Journey Home to Joy’ with Frit Tam of Frit Films. The route is included in my first book, Stand Up Paddleboarding in Great Britain. 

However, I didn’t just want you to take my word for it, so I invited paddlers who have completed the challenge to share their tips and memories with you. Thank you, Jason, Gee, Daisy, Julie, Lucy, Sarah, Sara, Anthony, Chuck, Mel, and Michelle, for your experience and generosity. 

How long does it take to paddleboard coast to coast?
Usually, it takes about 10-14 days, depending on how many rest days you include. That said, Anthony, 33, and Chuck, who were raising money for Suicide Prevention UK, completed it in under 100 hours, sleeping by the canal side in January 2024. Gee, the youngest amongst us at 28, also powered across in just five days as part of her demanding English trails coast-to-coast adventure triathlon (SUP, cycle, and run). 

What’s the best way to train?
For most of us, training for the distance was important to prevent injury and increase enjoyment. Long ‘tedious’ paddles on a local waterpark helped physio Julie, 55. Sarah, 54, lifted weights and did strength and conditioning exercises at the gym. Lucy, 55, a former physio, swapped to a standing desk at work to build up her postural stamina. Her legs never felt tired on the route! Jason worked with a ­PT for some heavy kettlebell work and, along with Sara, 58, emphasised the importance of using your core and legs to power your paddle. Daisy made long trips near her home beforehand, feeling they were never enough – but of course, they were! Personally, I was recovering from a frozen shoulder and plantar fasciitis in the lead-up to the trip, so kettlebells, yoga and spin helped me get strong enough. 

Invest in yourself and your kit 
Anthony, who runs Stand Up Paddleboard UK and is a highly experienced white water coach, stressed the importance of correct technique, and I would definitely advise updating your skills. Sarah also recommended investing in a good-quality paddle. She recorded 12,300 strokes on one 19-mile day! Gee suggested padded gloves to ward off blisters and some used trolley wheels to carry the boards between locks. Lucy recommended a smaller fin to help navigate weed, which can really slow you down. Keeping hydrated and fuelled is key, too, as is knowing how to self-rescue.

A huge of SUP support 
Support from friends, family and strangers was a recurrent theme. This might be driving a motorhome and making soup on chilly days or surprise visits from friends travelling from afar. Michelle spoke about strangers on the towpath offering her and Mel a cup of tea. Having a friend you can laugh with when things go wrong was also ‘pretty awesome and priceless’ for this duo. 

As Ant says, you can get through anything with a good friend beside you. A community can make all the difference.

Lucy noted that The Coast-to-Coast Alumni will support you all the way, sharing their experience and the latest updates on the route. If you follow anyone’s journey on social media, you will see people cheering from afar and donating to the causes, be that Cancer Research UK (Lucy and Julie), Mind (Daisy, Michelle and Mel), Changing Faces (Sarah), Andy’s Man Club, or the Eve Appeal (Sara). 

Overcoming challenges
The coast-to-coast inevitably throws up obstacles to test you. There is always the chance of strong winds, rain and swans, quite understandably, defending their territory. There are also sections around Wigan to Blackburn that can be prone to weed, which makes paddling very slow, “It nearly finished us!” Lucy recounted.

Joy and self-belief
For all the challenges, what shines through with each interview is the sense of joy and self-belief this trail brings. Singing, dancing, and laughing on the boards was not unusual!

Many told me how proud they felt of their achievement. They came to realise that you never know how strong you are unless you try and that our minds and bodies are extraordinary. Trusting yourself and your training is key, as is taking the 162-mile journey ‘one paddle stroke at a time.

I think Sara summed it up when she said, “At the top of the lock, I had an overwhelming sense of accomplishment, camaraderie and simple ‘joie de vivre’.I couldn’t remember feeling so happy and alive in a long time – and I let anyone within shouting distance know it!”

I’m so grateful to everyone who has shared their story. I hope they inspire you to take on the coast-to-coast and feel the same joy, confidence and achievement. Do let us know if you do! Happy fifth anniversary to this extraordinary trail! 

For more information www.canalrivertrust.org.uk and www.paddleuk.org.uk